Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 2026 Highlights: 5 Facts About the Best Parisian Show

Paris Fashion Week's lavish launch: what you need to know about the opening show.

The Saint Laurent show marks the start of Paris Fashion Week. And from day one, Anthony Vaccarello set the bar high. The same was true for the Spring/Summer 2026 season, which sparked a storm of industry discussion. VILED Media shares the key facts.

Location and symbolism

Saint Laurent has long staked its claim to the symbol of France—the Eiffel Tower. Each of the brand's shows takes place in a specially constructed black cube on the Trocadéro and its surrounding area, always offering the best possible view of the glittering monument. This time, the backdrop was a living garden at the foot of the tower: fluffy white hydrangeas, night lanterns, and installations created the atmosphere of bohemian Paris by night. From a bird's eye view, the flower hedges formed the shape of the brand's logo, Cassandre.

Leather and crinolines

Anthony Vaccarello's new collection could be divided into three parts, or even theatrical acts. The first is leather and the 1980s: the designer suggests wearing broad-shouldered biker jackets and skinny pencil skirts with snow-white blouses decorated with enormous bows, crossing strength and softness, boldness and romanticism. The second part features sheer trench coats and summer sets in nylon and chiffon, creating a "wet body" effect. The suits and dresses looked simply weightless. And finally, the third and final part features evening gowns reminiscent of the Victorian era: voluminous ruffles, drapes, and chunky jewelry.

A Fashion History Lesson

One of the collection's starting points was the costumes Yves Saint Laurent created for the famous Proust Ball in 1971, hosted by Marie-Hélène de Rothschild. At the time, the designer dressed clients—including Hélène Rochas and Jane Birkin—in ensembles that combined elements of baroque opulence, theatricality, and contemporary tailoring. Vaccarello admits that this moment inspired him to work directly with the archive's "historical" direction for the first time, although he had previously been more interested in 1980s silhouettes.
The Spring/Summer 2026 collection also draws on the theme of "Queen Margot," a film starring Isabelle Adjani and set in 16th-century France. Here, Vaccarello borrows dramatic sleeve shapes, high collars, and abundant drapery, but reinterprets them using nylon—a material that can literally be rolled into a ball and tucked into a bag.

Colors

Despite the abundance of black in the first third of the show, noir didn't dominate the collection: the palette included terracotta, purple, deep blue, sandy flecks, and refreshing berry tones. The contrast with white elements—flowers and details—intensified the visual immersion.

Star faces

Many publications proclaimed the Saint Laurent show's front row "unprecedentedly star-studded." The audience included major and influential names from across eras and genres. From Catherine Deneuve, Madonna, and Jean-Paul Gaultier, to supermodels like Linda Evangelista and Kate Moss, to new-generation stars like Rosé, Hailey Bieber, Zoë Kravitz, and Charli XCX. But perhaps one of the most notable celebrities appeared not in the audience, but on the runway: Bella Hadid, who emerged midway through the show, made a significant exception for Saint Laurent, as her active fashion career remains on hold.