What is the Wrong Coat Theory?

It all started with shoes. In 2023, celebrity stylist and influencer Allison Bornstein coined the term “bad shoe theory.” On social networks, she talked about a styling trick that involves adding the most unexpected shoes to your look. For example, pair beach flip-flops with formal suit trousers; sparkling sandals for a sporty look; combat boots go with a floral dress.This technique not only refreshes a basic or boring wardrobe, but also gives it more individuality. “Working with clients and analyzing celebrity style, I realized that what makes our look interesting and personal is adding accessories that seem a little unusual or don't fit with the rest of the aesthetic,” Bornstein said in an interview with Vogue last year. Other stylists decided to take this advice, and then their celebrity clients: Kendall Jenner, Elle Fanning, Katie Holmes, Jennifer Lawrence, etc. For those who don't know where to start, the stylist gives two pieces of advice. Or try on shoes you often wear with a very unexpected outfit. Or opt for that pair of shoes that completely contradicts your first impulse. A year later, “inappropriate” shoes no longer seem so inappropriate to us... So now this styling theory has spread to another, much more noticeable item of clothing.

This winter, forget about searching for the perfect coat/skin coat/fur coat/down jacket. Instead of “ideal,” choose “wrong.” In 2024, stylists and TikTokers are coming up with a new formula for a cool fashion look: the “wrong coat theory.” The idea is the same as with shoes: you need to complement your look with outerwear that doesn’t quite fit with the rest of your clothes.

На первый взгляд, пример с обувью кажется не таким рисковым, просто потому, что чисто пропорционально составляет очень малую часть. Другое дело жакет или верхняя одежда, от которой зависит +50% восприятия. Как сделать так, чтобы неуместная куртка казалась подходящей? Ключ к теории «неправильного пальто» заключается в том, чтобы… не прилагать усилий и не использовать жакет как способ подчеркнуть или приукрасить свой образ. Наоборот, ваша задача добавить совершенно новой энергии базовому гардеробу. Например, это может быть длинный тренч с мини-юбкой или кожаная байкерская куртка с кружевным платьем макси. Пробуйте разное! Пробуйте контрастное! Не застревайте в одном образе.

Stylists claim that the theory of the wrong coat works like a session with a psychologist. For example, it can become a signal that it’s time to change something not only in your wardrobe, but also in your life.

No matter how fun and frivolous the theory may sound, in practice the “wrong” outerwear requires careful selection. First, you need to consider what exactly an inappropriate jacket will contrast with. It’s easiest when the client’s basic wardrobe is classic. Use materials, textures and shapes that you wouldn't normally pair with your clothes.

Secondly, I want such outerwear to be trendy in itself. For example, a high-quality voluminous down jacket + women's two-piece suits with ties. Asymmetrical and ascetic “Asian” trench coat + elegant shorts. Faux fur coat with silk pajamas, like Carrie Bradshaw. A chunky leather jacket and a fringed maxi dress. The most frequently repeated incongruous combination on the world’s catwalks is a voluminous parka “like for a trip to Shymbulak or fishing” + a cocktail dress in sequins, like at VILED social events. It's called "luxury outdoors." Or play with camouflage jackets within the framework of the “wrong coat theory.” They contrast with any clothing. In addition, you can experiment with proportions: try on oversized outerwear over a more fitted silhouette.

This is a great step to try out a trend without completely changing your style and still feel like yourself. The key is to find pieces that create an unexpected and visually interesting pairing with your usual outfits. But at the same time they won’t make you nervous when you get dressed.

First it was the “wrong shoes”, then came the inappropriate jacket... What will be the next “inappropriate” wardrobe item? Stylists predict that the next in this series will be the “wrong bag theory.” For example, a sports backpack combined with an elegant dress or a strict clutch with a motorcycle aesthetic. Or, choose pumps for a satin suit, and use a canvas model as a bag. You already have a chance to stay ahead of this trend or come up with your own fashionable association.